June 1, 2020
Due to travel restrictions, plans are only available with travel dates on or after
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The West African coastal nation of Togo is a top heritage tourism destination for African Americans and Black people worldwide, longing to learn more about their ancestry and history. Togo’s capital city, Lome, is a must see with its vibrant markets, museums and white sand beaches.
Lome is also the culinary center of Togo. Food in Lome mirrors Togo’s history and geography. In the small nation, tucked between Ghana and Benin, Togolese cooks blend multiple techniques and staples from around West Africa. French and German cookery has also markedly influenced many dishes in Togo.
Lome is known for its nightlife and as home to Togo’s best street food and traditional maquis, or open-air street restaurants. Street food is king in Lome, where vendors sell small bites and snacks including fried dough, meats, and fruits. It’s a great way to sample a variety of local cuisine.
Togolese cuisine isn’t as well-known abroad as other cuisines, but heritage tourism is fueling enthusiasm for food from West Africa, the region to which most Black Americans trace their ancestry. Here are some top dishes that will give you taste of Lome and the best places in the city to tuck in.
Togolese cuisine, “is heavily influenced by the availability of ingredients, with many dishes featuring staples such as corn, yams, cassava, and beans,” writes CountryReports.
“The food in Togo is often spicy. People use a variety of peppers to add heat to their dishes. The level of spiciness can vary. Some dishes are very hot, while others have a milder flavor,” writes StrawPoll.
Fufu may be to West Africa what rice is to East Asia. It is the perfect, starchy accompaniment to stews, vegetables, sauces and soups. Fufu is everywhere! The traditional side dish is made of boiled yams smashed into a dough and rounded. Pate, which is made of cornmeal, is eaten similarly to fufu and has a unique, mild taste that pairs well with saucy, spicy and savory dishes.
You can’t visit Lome without visiting a fufu bar. The walk-up, outdoor restaurants serve fufu with various main dishes. Two local favorites are Bar Restaurant and Fufu Bar Resto Main Divine.
“As you arrive at the Bar Restaurant, the sound of fresh fufu being pounded immediately hits your ears. A group of 6-8 women, each with a pestle in hand, surround a large wooden mortar of fufu, lifting their pestles up and down in unison with the end goal of preparing batches of fufu for their hungry customers,” writes Being Christina Jane.
This method of grilling chicken often uses chicken legs, which, after cooking, retain more juiciness than chicken breasts. Open flame gives meat marinated in ginger, garlic, onion and various spices, a smoky flavor. A chili sauce is drizzled over the chicken after grilling.
The juice of palm fruits forms the base of this aromatic and rich soup, the recipe of which varies based on region and familial tradition. Tomatoes, hot peppers, okra, mackerel, beef and more lend flavor to the soup, which is eaten with fufu, rice, or other mild, starchy side dishes.
The preparation of Deku Desi showcases the practicality and ingenuity of Togolese chefs and home cooks, who traditionally use as many parts as possible of an ingredient:
“The palm fruits are first cooked until the outer skins are really soft and tender. After that, the whole fruits are then gently pounded in a special mortar to separate the flesh from the nut. When well pounded, it is then sieved to separate the skin and fiber from the nut inside; the juice extracted is then used to make the paste that is used to make this palm fruit soup.
The fibrous part left after straining is discarded or dried and used as a fire starter. Nuts can be cracked and eaten as a snack or used to produce palm kernel oil,” writes Chef’s Pencil.
Sodabi is easily the national drink of Togo. The strong liquor is made from the distilled, fermented sap of the African oil palm. If you are touring the countryside in Togo, you may be offered the liquor neat in a shot by your hosts. Sodabi is often informally distilled in villages and flavored with herbs and spices. It’s also bottled for mass distribution and that is how you will most likely drink it in Lome and abroad.
Though much loved in Togo, this dish is borrowed from further west in the Casamanche region of Senegal. Like many traditional delicacies, this dish varies based on the chef. Chicken legs and a heap of onions are first marinated in lemon juice and mustard and then browned in a pan before baking to seal in the juices.
The chicken and onion mixture is then thrown into a pot with a large, flaming hot chili pepper and then fully cooked in an oven. The result of the multi-step cooking process is tender, flavorful meat that falls off the bone and perfectly caramelized onions.
Before you plan your next foodie excursion to Togo, consider purchasing travel insurance to protect your trip. You should know that healthcare facilities abroad may not accept your domestic health insurance. An Allianz Travel Insurance plan with Emergency Medical benefits can help provide reimbursement in the event of a covered medical emergency while traveling. Certain plans also offer benefits that can reimburse certain non-refundable expenses if your trip is cancelled or delayed for a covered reason.
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